This page started out to address Mudsnails but has been expanded to try to cover cleaning methods for other invasive aquatic species and recent research I have become aware of via the web.

Colorado now has Quagga Mussels, and Zebra Mussels as well as the New Zealand Mudsnails, Didymo and the aqua plants Hydrilla and Eurasian Milfoil (mostly found in still waters).

ALWAYS CLEAN / SANITIZE YOUR WADING, FISHING, AND BOATING EQUIPMENT BEFORE GOING TO ANOTHER BODY OF WATER
(We will not know a river is contaminated until MONTHS OR YEARS after it is infested. Thus assume that the body of water you are leaving is contaminated with some unknown ANS, Aquatic Nuisance Species )

Best practice advice is to treat every waterway you leave as contaminated and every one you enter as clean. This means that in order to avoid transferring invasive species from one river to another you should decontaminate your gear every time you move from one body of water to the next, regardless of what you think its infestation status is. Here is a mantra for you:

CHECK:

Before leaving a river or lake’s edge, look for clumps of algae, sand, sediment, and remove them from your wading fishing equipment including nets, boats, and trailers. Leave them at the site.

CLEAN: (modified 10/03/08)

Some government and conservation organizations are now promoting simple scrubbing and cleaning of your equipment with water only. Preferably at home but using water at the site is better than not cleaning. This simple cleaning will, as they say in risk management, reduce the risk of transporting invasive species. However, it will not kill the invasive species so there is a chance that an invasive remains on your equipment. Many of the invasive species have a form of their development that is microscopic or at least very hard to distinguish with a naked eye. There does not seem to be any studies to substantiate that cleaning with water only signficantly reduces the risk of contamination.

Killing the invasive species on your equipment lowers the risk of transporting live specimens the most.

Most invasive species are sensitive to hot water. Clean using very hot water and/ or completetly dry all materials, see sections below for recommended methods and temperatures.

Steam or boiling water are alternatives that may be applicable for use with boating equipment. Several reservoirs in Colorado now have inspections stations and high pressure hot water cleaning stations that you may required to use. Other bodies of water you may be required to provide proof of adequate cleaning before you can launch your watercraft.

Freezing all of your equipment overnight is another method that works.

Most aquatic invasive species are susceptable to complete drying ovwe an extended period of time.

If any of those are not reasonable then use of another set of fishing and boating equipment that has already been cleaned and dried previously is a good option.

Don't forget to clean and dry your wading dog. Fur will retain these invasive species quite easily. Especially between the the dog's toe pads. So just like your wading equipment the recommendations are to thoroughly and completely dry the dog out and then wait an addition 48 hours before taking the dog to another body of water. You are responsible for your dog.

READ THE NON-CHEMICAL METHODS LISTED FURTHER DOWN THE PAGE FOR MORE THOROUGH DETAILS.

Chemicals or cleaners:

Other than very hot water, freezing for extended periods or thorough drying for several days to over a week, the only other alternative to kill the invasive is to include chemicals in the cleaning process to sanitize your equipment before entering another body of water.
However, there is no one chemical that has been tested to take care of all of the invasive species to be concerned about. The use of chemicals present issues you have to consider and figure out a personal method to deal with it. Some of those issues are: Storage, safe transport, keeping them away from children, limited availability of many of the chemicals, limited applicability for a species and what is the appropriate disposal of the chemicals. Many organizations are staying away from recommending chemicals due to concerns of liability, limited applicability to cover all invasive species, potential for lawsuits from any one with a desire to, and a perceived potential of contamination of the water ways and lands with these chemicals by indiscriminate fishermen.

My personal view is that after cleaning then rinsing one's equipment the amount of disinfectant transported to the stream will be very minor and has a lot less of an impact than the snails, whirling disease, and Didymo will have.

Read the chemical methods listed further down the page.

DRY:

If using only warm or cold water for your cleaning then complete drying is important for maximum risk reduction of transferring an invasive species.

If possible, leave your boat and gear to completely dry as an extra precaution. Many invasive species are susceptible to desiccation from drying out.

If cleaning is not practical, thoroughly dry all items. Materials and equipment have to be totally dry all the way through to kill invasive microscopic species that can penetrate deep into "soft materials." After achieving what you think is dry then leave it to dry for at least another 48 hours before using in another water system. Felt soles, fabric and other soft absorbent materials in clothing,boots, boats, trailers, etc. will required longer to completely dry all the way through. Typically a day to a week. In the case of dense soft materials like felt soles, ropes, web strapping, and items in enclosed spaces this can require weeks.

Read the non-chemical methods listed further down the page.

or FREEZE:

Freezing over night is another good option Freezing will kill didymo, mud snails, and many other invasive plants and animals.

Read the non-chemical methods listed further down the page.

DON'T DISCARD OR RELEASE in the water-

Don't transport live bait or game fish from one body of water to another as they can carry disease with them or populate another body of water thus becoming another invasive species. This is illegal in many places.
Don't discard dead fish or fish parts or use it as cut bait into a body of water as any disease such as WD will be freely dispersed into the water.

 

Non Chemical Methods of Cleaning
Hot water , drying, Freezing

Hot Water Bath:
* For NZMS Give your gear a hot water bath (120 -130ºF) for at least five minutes. Water must remain the recommended temperature during soaking the equipment- Water in your bath tub may be able to maintain this temperature for the required time. Your dish washer should work well but you should check the water temperature in the dishwasher first. Multiple cycles may be required for the recommended duration. For Didymo, Whirling Disease and Quagga/Zebra Mussels 140ºF or higher is recommended but duration varies.

Here is one way a camping fisherman says he achieves decontamination for NZMS:
"I've found one of those Zodi portable hot shower kits (http://www.zodi.com/web-content/ ) and a 5 gallon bucket makes a nice portable sterilizer without having to carry chemicals, and lets me take a hot shower while camping. The Zodi unit is a continuous operation heater. I just put the inlet and outlet hose in the same bucket, turn it on and let it run. I monitor the temperature with a cheap kitchen thermometer and once it gets up to temperature, I leave it running for another 5 minutes to be safe then shut it down."

Dry out the Equipment:
The general guidelines recommends thoroughly drying the equipment. For Didymo many web sites recommend thoroughly drying the equipment to touch. Then allow another 24 min but 48 hours recommended before using the equipment. Thoroughly drying the equipment can be a lot harder than you think. Felt soles and other soft materials (fabric, fabric straps, rope, etc.) may take days to weeks to dry completely through the depth of the material. A testing program by the New Zealand Biosecurity demonstrated that microsopic organizisms readily penetrate in the interior of porous materials. You also have to make sure all creases and crevices outside and inside the equipment are completely dry, such as inside boots or boat bags. NZMS have survived several days in a dry environment and 50 days on a moist surface. Didymo also will survive if there is any moisture present

The "Protect Your Waters" website sponsored by The national Aquatic Nuisance Species (ANS) Task Force, the US Fish and Wildlife Service and the US Coast Guard recommends;" If possible, allow for 5 days of drying time before entering new waters."
Complete drying of equipment is a method recommended by New Zealand Biosecurity for killing Didymo on your equipment. Using heat to facilitate the drying helps.

For Killing Didymo, Whirling Disease -WD, Quagga/Zebra Mussels and NZMS- New Zealand Mud Snails

Dry Heat:
* Dry Heat will kill NZMS, and WD. Spray with "Commercial Solutions Formula 409 Cleaner Degreaser Disinfectant" or other soap/ detergent and let waders and boots dry in the hot sun for several hours. The air must be low humidity and over 84 Degrees F for 24 hours or 104 Degrees F (or higher) for 2 hours for NZMS and WD. (The reason for the soap is because it breaks down the mucus the mud snails utilizes to hold onto wet surfaces)

Any residual mud must be completely dried through. Inside surfaces such in boots and felt soles must be thoroughly dry also which typically takes a day to several days to thoroughly dry.

For Didymo the New Zealand Biosecurity states the following "Relying on ambient drying as a stand-alone treatment for decontaminating highly absorbent risk goods such as felt-soled waders and boots is not recommended in situations where use between waterways is frequent (daily, weekly or even monthly). Drying should only be relied upon as a decontamination treatment if great care is taken to actively and completely dry the felt (such as by using a heat source where temperatures around the felt are assured of reaching 30 °C (86 °F)). Once the felt appears dry, complete dryness must be confirmed by a tactile inspection of the felt pile to the base of the fibers. Once completely dry, items must remain dry for at least another 48 hours before use in another waterway."

Freeze Equipment
Freezing waders, boots and equipment for 4 hours minimum (for those winter die hard addicts or those with unused freezer space). ALL The interior recesses must be frozen, also. Additional time must be added for the recesses and insides of boots to reach freezing as well as the thick absorbent parts of items. Thus the best thing is to freezing all over night.
Note - handle your frozen waders and boots carefully and thaw out before bending or unfolding. Frozen water absorbed by breathable materials, foams and leather has the potential to crack the gear material when bending it.

Didymo - Freezing temperature = 0° C minimum (32° F)
NZMS - Freezing temperature = 0° C (32° F) minimum
Whirling Disease = -20° C (-4° F) minimum
Quagga/ Zebra Mussels = 0° C (32° F) minimum

This kills Didymo, NZ mud snails, Whirling disease, Didymo, Quagga/Zebra Mussels.

Methods of Cleaning wading and fishing equipment using Chemicals

Immersion Method
(detailed instructions):

Using a stiff brush and water remove dirt, mud and other debris from boots/soles (take out removable inner soles), waders, wading staff, and net.
Use one of the solutions below.
Immerse equipment in a bucket of solution (3 to 5 gallons will be needed) keeping entire surfaces and crevices covered with solution (for NZMS CA DFG test indicates 5 minutes. However, follow up testing in California and another test at CO DOW shows 10 minutes minimum required).
Using a stiff brush wipe off all particulate.
Rinse into a building drain that goes to a water treatment facility. Do NOT rinse into river or lake or storm water drain. For copper sulfate see the copper sulfate section.

Besides getting buckets with lids at Home Improvement stores you can get used buckets, like the ones in the picture, with lids from restaurants. Things like pickles come in them and the restaurant is generally more than willing to part with empty containers. Two buckets will be more convenient as you can keep both a sanitizing bucket and a rinse bucket in your garage. Also, a weight may be needed to keep waders immersed in solution. I use a old barbell for the weight. I have a cord tied to the barbell so that I can pull it back out of the solution bucket.

This humorous story explains one way to clean your waders.

(a CA DFG and CO DOW recommendation)

Dry Bag Method
(detailed instructions):

Using a stiff brush and water remove dirt, mud and other debris from boots (take out removable inner soles), waders, wading staff, and net.
Add 8 to 10 liters (roughly 2-2.5 gal) of one of the solutions below to a "river runner dry bag" after you have put the waders and boots in. Shake and roll it around for 30 seconds and let it sit for 5 minutes minimum. Then shake 30 seconds again. Repeat. Using a stiff brush brush off all particulate. Rinse into a building drain that goes to a water treatment facility. Do NOT rinse into river or lake or storm water drain. For copper sulfate see the copper sulfate section

(a CA DFG test result)

Spray Method
(detailed instructions):

Using a stiff brush and water remove dirt, mud and other debris from boots (take out removable inner soles), waders and wading staff. Spray all surfaces including top and undersides of gravel guards. Snails easily get on the insides of boots so drown the inside surfaces liberally. Keep all surfaces wet with solution for at least 5 minutes. Rinse the solution off your equipment. Do NOT rinse into river or lake or storm water drain or sewers.

This method has tested adequate only for NZMS using copper sulfate Solution-( see this page). It has been tested adequate for Didymo using 0.12% benzalkonium chloride solution but not for felt soles or neoprene, or soft absorbent fabric of boots. From the New Zealand test results showing that chemical penetration into felt soles. ( see here also )

(Follow up testing by the Northern California Council of the Federation of Fly Fishers has been shown spraying Formula 409 Disinfectant solution on equipment is NOT effective for killing all snails. So don't rely on spraying it on)

(From CA DFG Test results)

Most of the following chemicals are not universally available in any given locale. Neither are you likely to find any one method of cleaning discussed on this page as being universally useable in your various fishing situations. Thus you will need to select the chemical and/or method that best fits your given situation.

Products containing biocides or algaecides are registered for certain uses. When one uses it for another purpose or beyond the product specifications it is against the law.

Formula 409 with Degreaser & Disinfectant - a "Commercial Solutions " product :

Formula 409® products which contain Disinfectant or Antibacterial are the only correct 409 products to use. The product straight from the bottle is best but most places still recommend a 50% solution. The 409 product must have a disinfectant / antibacterial in the product for it to kill the snails. See the full name of the products below.
Both products can be kept and reused a number of times. However, the disinfectant is susceptible to being neutralized by organ material such as dirt and grass thus remove as much as reasonable before soaking.
Spray application is unacceptable for this product.
This solution is deemed safe for your waders and boots though some visual aberrations may show. A number of other household cleaners were tested but they affected integrity of wading equipment. Long term Impacts of many fisherman wading with this chemical on their boots has not been studied. Thus rinse your wading equipment well, especially felt soles.

The disinfectant in these two Formula 409 products is a quat, Quaternary Ammonium Compound, A test at U.C. Davis has demonstrated the quat in Formula 409 kills the WD spores in 10 minutes at 1500 PPM (50/50 mixture of Formula 409 Disinfectant). I have not located any validation that Formula 409 will kill Didymo however New Zealand Biosecurity testing of another product that contains the same quat does kill Didymo.

Use only
"Commercial Solutions Formula 409® Cleaner Degreaser Disinfectant"
or
"Formula 409® All Purpose Cleaner Antibacterial Kitchen Lemon Fresh"

Where to Buy It
+ picture of the bottle

(A CA DFG test result ; CO DOW recommendation)

Copper Sulfate Solution (252 mg/L Cu) -

Immersion and Dry bag methods work. Another option for this solution which maybe handy on a multiple day traveling trip is to use the spray application for 5 minutes minimum. Copper Sulfate solution is the only tested solution proven to be effective at killing NZMS when sprayed on to the equipment.
Some brands of Copper Sulfate are registered in Colorado as herbicide and algaecide. Probably would kill invasive weeds like hydrilla and algae like Didymo on your wading equipment. Solution can be kept and reused many times.
This solution is deemed safe for your waders and boots. (CA DFG test Result) Long term impacts of many fisherman wading with this chemical on their boots has not been studied. Thus rinse your wading equipment well, especially felt soles.

Look here for Where to Buy it,
Mix Ratio table & Important info

This method has been proven to be effective for killing NZMS. Copper sulfate will kill Quagga/Zebra Mussels- concentration and duration period unknown. Not data for WD. Copper sulfate kills Didymo. Copper sulfate has commonly been used for many years to kill algae in lakes ponds, and canals. I suspect that soaking in tub would increase it's effectiveness but penetration all the way into felt soles may be a problem just like it is with all other chemical solutions. The use of detergents with it should improve the penetration since detergents have surfactants.

Copper Sulfate Pentahydrate Crystal is commonly sold at Hardware stores under various brand names as a root killer for sewers. Typically the instructions call for dumping 2 lb. of crystal into the commode. Some Farm and Ranch stores carry 50 LB bags of Copper Sulfate. In the western US, where there are many mines, some rivers are listed as impaired waterways due to high copper content. The state of Colorado has several rivers listed as such (The Arkansas, Colorado, Clear Creek, South Platte, Gunnison Rivers). Copper is hard to remove from the water supply to maintain compliance with federal regulations. Plus most water treatment plants rely on biological processing to treat waste water before releasing the water back into the river. High copper content can kill the biological organisms in the treatment plant. Biocides and algaecides such as quats can also cause the same problem. To help avoid the potential of exceeding copper content limits some municipalities discourage the use of high concentration copper based compounds such as copper sulfate pentahydrate. For the same reason some municipalities have stopped using copper sulfate in lakes and reservoirs to kill algae. It is recommended that you keep this in mind when disposing of rinse water and unused solution. Contact your local government regarding regulations. Golden Colorado asks city Vendors for voluntary compliance to keep copper sulfate pentahydrate root killer off their shelves since in a number of years past the City had exceeded copper content limits in their fresh water and waste water. The city no longer uses copper sulfate in it's water storage reservoirs to control algae and weeds. West Denver Trout Unlimited recommends not dumping Copper sulfate into rivers, ponds, lakes, storm drains or sewers.

(a CA DFG test result)

Sparquat 256 by Spartan Chemical Co. (4-6 oz. / gal water):

Sparquat 256 has been proven by the CO DOW to be more effective
than CS Formula 409 Cleaner Degreaser Disinfectant

-After brushing off mud and sand with a stiff brush soak the equipment in the solution for at least 10 minutes, and preferably 15 minutes. Agitate solution around boots and equipment while soaking.
This chemical has been used for a number of years by the Colorado DOW to sanitize equipment after Whirling Disease exposure. This product contains quaternary ammonium compounds (quat). There are a number of other quat products on the market that probably will work but have not been tested for effectiveness to kill the snail and be safe for waders.

Since the DOW has been using it for several years on their wading and test equipment equipment this solution appears to be safe for your wading equipment. It can be used a number of times. However, the disinfectant is susceptible to organic material such as dirt and grass neutralizing it. Thus remove as much dirt etc. as reasonable before soaking. Long term Impacts of many fisherman wading with this chemical on their boots has not been studied. Thus rinse your wading equipment well, especially felt soles.

Solutions of quats can be used over several days if not diluted.

Per Forest Service 2008 Guidance for firefighters:

4.0 liquid oz per gallon of water for Whirling Disease - 10 to 15 minutes soak time.
4.3 liquid oz per gallon of water for NZMS - 10 minutes exposure.
1.7 liquid oz per gallon of water for Didymo - 1 minute exposure
No data for Quagga Mussels

( Click to see where to get this product and
more info about quats & Whirling Disease )

This method has been proven to be effective for killing New Zealand Mud snails -NZMS, and whirling disease - WD. Based on other tested quats assumed effective for Didymo. Not data for Quagga/Zebra Mussels but likely to be effective.

(a Colorado DOW management plan alternative)( This germicide was not tested in the CA DFG test)

Uncle Jacks Didymo Killer:

Uncle Jacks is not available in the US. This has benzalkonium chloride a common quatenary ammonium compound used as one of a number of chemicals in various cleaning products at varying concentrations. Benzlkonium chloride is used as a biocide and surfactant. New Zealand Biosecurity used Uncle Jacks Didymo Killer which contains 3% Benzalkonium chloride. For spray application at full strength it kills Didymo in one minute. It also kills in one minute when items are submerged in a 4% solution of Uncle Jacks and water ( 0.12% benzalkonium chloride). Benzalkonium chloride is also known as alkyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and ADBAC. Formula 409 Disinfectant/Antibacterial formulations also contain this quat but at a much lower concentration, 0.3% concentration.

This has been proven effective for Didymo. Untested for NZMS, Quagga/Zebra Mussel and whirling disease but other quats should be effective also though the required concentrations need to be calculated

Quat 128® (mix ratio = 6.4 liquid oz. per gallon of water)

This chemical may or may not have been tested but it has the same quat as Sparquat 256. Just like Sparquat 256 this chemical, Quat 128, should be able to be found at some Janitorial or Hospital supply companies. This would be applicable to controlling Whirling disease and NZMS. The manufacturer is Buckeye International - (a Forest Service Interim Guidance for 2008 Fire Operations option)

per Forest Service 2008 Guidance for Fire Fighters:

6.1 liquid oz per gallon of water for Whirling Disease - 10 to 15 minutes soak time.
6.4 liquid oz per gallon of water for NZMS - 10 minutes exposure.
2.4 liquid oz per gallon of water for Didymo - 1 minute exposure
No data for Quagga Mussels

This method has been proven to be effective for Didymo, NZMS and WD. Not data for Quagga/Zebra Mussels but likely to be effective.

Bioguard Algaecide 28-40® (40% ADBAC mix Ratio = unknown)
This is a pool cleaning chemical but it is not listed on the manufacturer's web site so it may not be available any more. There are other pool algaecides out there that also contain the same quat as Sparquat 256 germicide. This algaecide has the quat Alkyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride.

This method has been proven to be effective to kill NZMS and WD. Not data for killing Didymo or Quagga/ Zebra Mussels.

Bleach
(which contains 3.5% Sodium hypochlorite - NaClO)- A solution of household bleach is NO LONGER recommended for NZMS. The 2005 CA DFG testing report demonstrated bleach is very ineffective at killing snails when it's operculum is closed. (Trap door kind of thing the snail closes over it's opening). A solution of bleach may cause some discoloration. Strong concentrations can affect wading equipment material integrity. However, a weak 2-10% solution of bleach (by Volume) is still effective for killing other invasive species such as Whirling Disease (10% bleach by volume solution soaking the item for 10 minutes), Didymo (2% by volume solution soaking the item for at least 1 minute -longer for items or parts of items that absorb water), and Zebra Mussels. Thus you will still see it promoted on many state wildlife websites and the "Protect Your Waters" website.

10% solutions = Put 13 fluid oz. in pail then add water to the 1 gallon mark.
2% solution = Put 3 fluid oz in pail then add water to the 1 gallon mark.

Bleach solutions break down quickly. They should be replaced daily per The New Zealand Biosecurity test reports. More often if heavily used.

Not effective for killing New Zealand Mudsnails.
This method will kill Didymo, WD, Quagga/Zebra Mussels.

Table Salt (sodium chloride)
Table Salt and water has been proven by the CA DFG to be 100% ineffective at killing NZMS. The Colorado DOW says it will not kill Quagga and Zebra mussels. It has not been tested on Whirling Disease. The New Zealand Biosecurity lists a 5% salt solution by volume (6.5 fluid oz. per gal water) as being effective against Didymo. Items must be submerged for 1 minute minimum. Absorbent materials such as cloth, leather, and foam require a lot longer submersion times.

This method has been proven to be effective for killing Didymo. It is ineffective on NZMS, Quagga/Zebra mussels. Unknown for WD.

Potassium Chloride(200 PPM KCL)-
An effective mussel-killing (Quagga / Zebra Mussels) remedy that works on both adults and veligers is a 200 parts per million solution of potassium chloride (KCL). You can make this solution by thoroughly mixing one teaspoon of dry KCL crystals in 2 gallons of water. You can add the KCL solution to your empty ballast tanks after draining them to treat the small amount of leftover water that typically does not drain all the way out.
However, it is harmless to other aquatic organism and humans. It also has extremely low corrosion characteristics and has been used in the oil well drilling industry for decades. Potassium chloride crystals is commonly available as a water softener at many home improvement stores and hardware stores. Morton Salt Company is one supplier who offers KCL, potasium chloride in 40 pound bags.

· IMPORTANT! - Do Not Use any other kind of salt solution. Table salt which is used for seasoning food, Sodium Chloride (NaCL), will not kill zebra and quagga mussels.

Nappy Cleaner -
A nappy is an Australian/English term for baby diaper. Thus nappy cleaner is a diaper cleaning solution. An 5% solution of nappy cleaner has been shown to be effective for killing Didymo. The one tested was an Australian product which appears to be available here in the US at select locations, called Napisan, Napi San.

A 5% solution is made by mixing 50 ml of product with water added to make 1 Liter (1000 ml) total.

Nappy Cleaner should be changed every two or three days and more often with heavy usage or heavily soiled. The cleaner starts to slowly break down as soon as it it is mixed with water.

The active ingredient is sodium percarbonate (2Na2CO3 · 3H20), an oxidizer; Napisan contains 25.7% sodium percarbonate. Oxy Clean reportedly has the same active ingredient but the amount relative to Napisan is not stated.

Information is from NIWA Project: MAF06506 (2006/2007) for New Zealand Biosecurity.

Sodium Percarbonate will readily dissolve in water to form hydrogen peroxide. Zebra mussels are sensitive to hydrogen peroxide however the concentration level to insure elimination has not been established.

This method NOT tested on NZMS, WD, Quagga/Zebra Mussels

Pure Vinegar
Soaking in pure vinegar is reported as being effective for Quagga / Zebra mussels. Required Soak time varies from source to source as; 20 minutes to 4 hours minimum but 24 hours recommended. Vinegar has not been tested for effectiveness on NZMS or Whirling Disease. The New Zealand Biosecurity does not recommend this for Didymo. It takes a pH of 4 or less to kill Didymo. Acetic acid, vinegar, has a slightly lower pH of 3. However any wetness will dilute the vinegar quick to where the pH will rise past 4. Thus Biosecurity does not recommend the use of vinegar.

This method NOT tested on NZMS,and WD. Not recommended for Didymo.

Dish detergent,
A 2-5% solution will kill Didymo. For 1 minute soak time of non-adsorbing materials 5% is required which would be 6.5 oz (a little more than 3/4 cup of detergent) for each gallon of water. A 2% solution requires 10 minutes soak time. Longer for absorbent materials. Palmolive and Sunlight were used in the New Zealand tests. ‘Green’ products are less effective and not recommended for disinfecting. Dish detergent does not work for NZMS and appears to not have been tested or is ineffective on WD, and mussels.

Though soap will not kill New Zealand Mudsnails it will help to release them from the surface they cling to. Thus washing them off of your equipment will be easier. But if you don't kill the invasive then you are leaving the possibility of the invasive remaining in your equipment crevices and recesses.

This method has been proven to be effective for Didymo. I have no data for WD, Quagga/ Zebra Mussels. Does not work for NZMS.

Boats, rafts, and trailer hygiene:

The Colorado DOWs boat / trailer inspection and cleaning recommendations for Quagga / Zebra mussels are found here. These cleaning procedures will work for other invasive species also. The some of the inspections are specific to the mussels.

Several literature sources now say that most home sprayers and retail self serve spray car washers do not provide hot enough water. The 100th Meridian website says for Boats and other Recreational equipment: "Live steam, boiling, and hot (> 140 ºF) power washing are all believed to be effective against all zebra/quagga mussel life stages. Work a small section at a time with a minimum exposure of 3 min at full heat for each area."

Excellent Video on Inspecting and cleaning your boat
NZ Whitewater Canoe Club Recommendations
Also see www.protectyourwaters.net
(CO DOW NZMS management plan)

The "Stop Aquatic Hitchhikers!" campaign empowers recreational users to become part of the solution in stopping the transport and spread of these harmful hitchhikers. The main sponsors of this national program are The national Aquatic Nuisance Species (ANS) Task Force, the US Fish and Wildlife Service and the US Coast Guard.

The Stop Aquatic Hitchhikers website has some general prevention procedures for preventing the spread of invasive species. Though they are very good procedures to follow just remember they are general procedures trying to covering many potential threats. Parts of the general procedures are inadequate in that they are not positive controls for protection against New Zealand Mudsnails and/or Whirling Disease since they do not kill the invasive. Review the information about vinegar, dish detergent, and salt water solutions discussed above.

General Prevention Procedures for Aquatic Invasive species http://protectyourwaters.org/prevention/prevention_generic.php

Read these questions and answers dealing with concerns raised about cleaning our wading equipment

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2007 Student thesis on NZMS

General Prevention Procedures for Aquatic Invasive species http://protectyourwaters.org/prevention/prevention_generic.php

(some of these general procedures are inadequate against New Zealand Mudsnails)