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WDTU Invasive Species Page

last modified Jan 13, 2008

Adult New Zealand Mudsnails on the edge of a penny!
20 to 120 babies may be inside each snail


Photo reprinted with permission of The Billings Gazette

This page started out to address Mudsnails but has been expanded to try to cover cleaning methods for other invasive aquatic species.

Cleaning Your Fishing Equipment
to remove New Zealand Mudsnails, Whirling Disease Spores, Didymo & other Invasive Species
 

ALWAYS CLEAN / SANITIZE YOUR WADING and FISHING EQUIPMENT BEFORE GOING TO ANOTHER BODY OF WATER
(We will not know a river is contaminated until long after it is infested)

Don't rely on visual inspection.
Visual inspection has been proven to be ineffective during the California DFG wader equipment cleaning test for New Zealand Mudsnails (NZMS). These snails may be no bigger than a grain of sand and actually appear to be a grain of sand or a pebble. Note also that the young of Quagga Mussels and Zebra Mussels are also exceedingly small. You can't depend on visual inspection for Whirling Disease spores or Didymo either as these are microscopic organisms. All of these invasives at one or more stages of their lives float in the water.


NZ Mudsnails on removable inner soles
photo provided by Federation of Fly Fishers

During the CA DFG wader testing program they found that it is extremely easy for the snails to get between the removable inner soles and the boot. All samples had at least a few between the inner sole and the boot. If you have Remove inner soles remove them before cleaning.

Rinse Well to remove cleaning agents and disinfectants before re-entering the water.

Don't use Felt Soles?

A number of environmental and state wildlife organizations are now discouraging the use of Felt bottom soles due to the porous soles allowing diseases and small organisms (such as whirling disease spores, rock snot diatoms, and Mudsnails) to penetrate deeply into the felt. Thus it is hard to adequately kill the organism but at the same time the organisms can come back out of the felt later on.

Plus, it is quite hard to adequately rinse cleaners and disinfectants out of the sole which then can leach out in the stream. My personal view is that after rinsing the amount of disinfectant transported to the stream will be very minor and has a lot less of an impact than the snails, whirling disease, and Dittymo will have.
Rubber or Aqua stealth soles with studs is an attractive option. Korkers boots with 1/4" cleats or the strap-on on cleats would be an excellent consideration. The cleats are quite aggressive compared to other manufacturer's stud designs. Cleats and studs are not good for boats and float tubes though.


The following is a short outline of 3 methods one could use with chemicals. The Detailed steps for "immersion", "dry bag" and "spray" methods from the California Dept. of Fish and Games report can be found with the associated links below. As an alternative, you can pull up the report where the step by step cleaning procedures begin on page 35 of the report.


Immersion Method (
detailed instructions):

Using a stiff brush remove dirt, mud and other debris from boots/soles (take out removable inner soles), waders, wading staff, and net.
Use one of the solutions below. Immerse equipment in a bucket of solution (3 to 5 gallons will be needed) keeping entire surfaces and crevices covered with solution (CA DFG test indicates 5 minutes. However, follow up testing in California and another test at CO DOW show 10 minutes minimum required).
Using a stiff brush wipe off all particulate. Rinse into a building drain that goes to a water treatment facility. Do NOT rinse into river or lake or storm water drain. For copper sulfate see the copper sulfate section.
Solution can be kept and reused a number of times.

(Follow up testing by the Northern California Council of the Federation of Fly Fishers has shown spraying Formula 409 Disinfectant solution on equipment is NOT effective for killing all snails.)

Besides getting buckets with lids at Home Improvement stores you can get used buckets, like the ones in the picture, with lids from Restaurants. Things like pickles come in them and the restaurant is generally more than willing to part with empty containers. Two buckets will be more convenient as you can keep both a sanitizing bucket and a rinse bucket in your garage. Also, a weight may be needed to keep waders immersed in solution. I use a barbell for the weight. I have a cord tied to the barbell so that I can pull it back out of the solution bucket.

This humorous story explains one way to clean your waders.

(a CA DFG and CO DOW recommendation)

Or


Dry Bag Method
(detailed instructions):

Using a stiff brush remove dirt, mud and other debris from boots (take out removable inner soles), waders, wading staff, and net.
Add 8 to 10 liters (roughly 2-2.5 gal) of one of the solutions below to a "river runner dry bag" after you have put the waders and boots in. Shake and roll it around for 30 seconds and let it sit for 5 minutes minimum. Then shake 30 seconds again. Using a stiff brush brush off all particulate. Rinse into a building drain that goes to a water treatment facility. Do NOT rinse into river or lake or storm water drain. For copper sulfate see the copper sulfate section
Solution can be kept and reused a number of times.


(a CA DFG recommendation)

Or


Spray Method
(detailed instructions):

Using a stiff brush remove dirt, mud and other debris from boots (take out removable inner soles), waders and wading staff. Spray all surfaces including top and undersides of gravel guards. Snails easily get on the insides of boots so drown the inside surfaces liberally. Keep all surfaces wet with solution for at least 5 minutes. Do NOT rinse into river or lake or storm water drain or sewers.

This method is good only for copper sulfate Solution- see below.
Formula 409 solutions fail the spray application method.

(From CA DFG and Northern California Council of Fly Fishers Test results)

Chemical Solutions
for the above methods

None of the following chemicals are universally available in any locale. Neither are you likely to find any one method of cleaning discussed any where on this page as being universally useable in your various fishing situations. Thus you will need to select the chemical and/or method that best fits your given situation.


Formula 409 with Degreaser & Disinfectant, "Commercial Solutions "
:

**** ALERT ****

The only Formula 409® Product tested for effectiveness and be safe for boots and waders is

"Commercial Solutions Formula 409® Cleaner Degreaser Disinfectant"
It can be found in some stores. Not grocery stores, though.
The only other Formula 409 product with the same MAC disinfectant in it is:

"Formula 409® All Purpose Cleaner Antibacterial Kitchen Lemon Fresh"
available in many locations but probably in small containers

Most Formula 409 products do not have a disinfectant / antibacterial in it. The disinfectant or antibacterial is what will kill the snails.

Where to Buy it - What the bottle looks like

Other types of Formula 409, as well as other cleaning fluids with surfactants and detergents, are helpful in that it would force the snail to loosen it's hold on the surface it is hanging on to so that the cleaning processes can wash them off. But it would do little to kill any. Thus it is, by far, best if you use the formulations listed above for loosening the snails hold plus killing them. Other cleaning fluids formulations may damage wading equipment.
* More effective and efficient methods are listed in following sections *

the Webguy



Soaking in 100% Formula 409 Antibacterial/Disinfectant products for 10 minutes required

Note - 50/50 Mixture for 5 minutes is still a recommendation in most websites addressing NZMS.

Jan 4, 2008
I have seen a draft of a Colorado DOW testing report demonstrating that a 50% solution of Formula 409® Disinfectant is inadequate at killing all New Zealand Mudsnails. Undiluted Formula 409® disinfectant / Antibacterial products are required.
Thus the prior recommendation of a 50% solution is no longer recommended here.
The 50/50 recommendation came from a California Department of Fish and Game study where snails were evaluated after 24 hours. The Colorado Department of Fish and Game recently did another study in which they also evaluated the NZMS 56 days after exposure. It found that there were live snails with a 50% solution of Formula 409 but virtually all were dead in the 100% Formula 409. The exposure time had to be 10 minutes as 5 minutes was inadequate at either concentration. The same Formula 409 product used in the California tests was used in the Colorado tests. The only other product tested was Sparquat 256 which also was effective for killing the snails. At full strength it may be very difficult to rinse out the clothing, felt soles etc.
When the report becomes available in its released form I will post the report.

 


Formula 409® products which contain Disinfectant or Antibacterial are the only correct 409 products to use. The product straight from the bottle is best but most places still recommend a 50% solution. The product must have a disinfectant / antibacterial in the product for it to kill the snails. See the full name of the products below.
Both products can be kept and reused a number of times. However, the disinfectant is susceptible to being neutralized by organ material such as dirt and grass thus remove as much as reasonable before soaking.
Spray application is unacceptable for this product.
This solution is deemed safe for your waders and boots though some visual aberrations may show. A number of other household cleaners were tested but they affected integrity of wading equipment.
Long term Impacts of many fisherman wading with this chemical on their boots has not been studied. Thus rinse your wading equipment well, especially felt soles.

The disinfectant in these two Formula 409 products is a QAC, Quaternary Ammonium Compound, A test at UC Davis has demonstrated the the QAC in Formula 409 kills the WD spores in 10 minutes at 1500 PPM (50/50 mixture of Formula 409 Disinfectant). I have not located any specific validation that Formula 409 will kill Didymo however New Zealand Biosecurity recommends a 2 to 5% solution of dish detergent for home use.

Use only
"Commercial Solutions Formula 409® Cleaner Degreaser Disinfectant"

or
"Formula 409® All Purpose Cleaner Antibacterial Kitchen Lemon Fresh"

Where to Buy It
+ picture of the bottle


(A CA DFG test result ; CO DOW recommendation)

Or


Copper Sulfate Solution
(252 mg/L Cu) -

Immersion and Dry bag methods work. Another option for this solution which maybe handy on a multiple day traveling trip is to use the spray application for 5 minutes minimum. Copper Sulfate solution is the only tested solution proven to be effective when sprayed on to the equipment.
Copper Sulfate is a herbicide - algaecide registered in Colorado. Probably would kill invasive weeds like hydrilla and algae like Didymo on your wading equipment. Solution can be kept and reused many times.
This solution is deemed safe for your waders and boots. (CA DFG test Result) Long term impacts of many fisherman wading with this chemical on their boots has not been studied. Thus rinse your wading equipment well, especially felt soles.

Where to Buy it
Mix Ratio & Important inf0

This method has been proven to be effective for NZMS. Not data for didymo or Quagga/Zebra Mussels or WD but likely to be effective.


Copper Sulfate Pentahydrate Crystal is commonly sold at Hardware stores under various brand names as a root killer for sewers. Typically the instructions call for dumping 2 lb. of crystal into the commode.

In the western US, where there are many mines, some rivers are listed as impaired waterways due to high copper content. The state of Colorado has several rivers listed as such (The Arkansas, Colorado, Clear Creek, South Platte, Gunnison Rivers). Copper is hard to remove from the water supply to maintain compliance with federal regulations. Plus most water treatment plants rely on biological processing to treat waste water before releasing the water back into the river. High copper content can kill the biological organisms in the treatment plant. To help avoid the potential of exceeding copper content limits some municipalities discourage the use of high concentration copper based compounds such as copper sulfate pentahydrate. For the same reason some municipalities have stopped using copper sulfate in lakes and reservoirs to kill algae. It is recommended that you keep this in mind when disposing of rinse water and unused solution. Contact your local government regarding regulations.

Golden Colorado
asks city Vendors for voluntary compliance to keep copper sulfate pentahydrate root killer off their shelves since in the past the City has exceeded copper content limits in their fresh water and waste water.
West Denver Trout Unlimited recommends not dumping Copper sulfate into rivers, ponds, lakes, storm drains or sewers.

(a CA DFG test result)

Or


Sparquat 256
by Spartan Chemical Co. (4-6 oz. / gal water):

Sparquat 256 has been proven by the CO DOW to be more effective
than CS Formula 409 Cleaner Degreaser Disinfectant

-After brushing off mud and sand with a stiff brush soak the equipment in the solution for at least 10 minutes, and preferably 15 minutes. Agitate solution around boots and equipment while soaking.
This chemical has been used for a number of years by the Colorado DOW to sanitize equipment after Whirling Disease exposure. This product contains quaternary ammonium compounds (QAC). There are a number of other QAC products on the market that probably will work but have not been tested for effectiveness to kill the snail and be safe for waders.

Since the DOW has been using it for several years on their equipment this solution appears to be safe for your wading equipment. It can be used a number of times. However, the disinfectant is susceptible to organic material such as dirt and grass neutralizing it. Thus remove as much dirt etc. as reasonable before soaking. Long term Impacts of many fisherman wading with this chemical on their boots has not been studied. Thus rinse your wading equipment well, especially felt soles.

Solutions of QACs can be used over several days if not diluted.

( Click to see where to get this product and
more info about QACs & Whirling Disease
)

This method has been proven to be effective for NZMS and WD. Not data for didymo or Quagga/Zebra Mussels but likely to be effective.

(a Colorado DOW management plan alternative)( This germicide was not tested in the CA DFG test)

Or


Benzethonium Chloride Solution
(1940 mg/Liter)

Use this solution in the immersion or dry bag methods listed above.
Sources for products that contain this Quaternary Ammonium Compound (QAC) are limited. Long term Impacts of many fisherman wading with this chemical on their boots has not been studied. Thus rinse your wading equipment well, especially felt soles.
This solution is deemed safe for your wading equipment. (a CA DFG test result)
The Whirling Disease Initiative says that QACs are effective for killing both forms of the Whirling Disease parasite. Proven effective for WD and NZMS. Effects on Didymo has not been studied. This chemical and Sparquat 256 are both QACs.

Solutions of QACs can be used over several days if not diluted.

See this page for more details and "where to buy" info

This method has been proven to be effective for NZMS and WD. Not data for didymo or Quagga/Zebra Mussels but likely to be effective.

(a CA DFG test result)

or

Quat 128® (mix ratio = 6.4 liquid oz. per gallon of water)

This chemical may or may not have been tested but it has the same QAC as Sparquat 256. Just like Sparquat 256 this chemical, Quat 128, should be able to be found at some Janitorial or Hospital supply companies. This would be applicable to controlling Whirling disease and NZMS. The manufacturer is Buckeye International - (a Forest Service Interim Guidance for 2007 Fire Operations option)

This method has been proven to be effective for NZMS and WD. Not data for didymo or Quagga/Zebra Mussels but likely to be effective.

or

Bioguard Algicide 28-40® (mix Ratio = unknown)
This is a pool cleaning chemical but it is not listed on the manufacturer's web site so it must not be available any more. There are other pool algaecides out there that also contain the same QAC as Sparquat 256 germicide. This QAC is Alkyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride.

This method has been proven to be effective for NZMS and WD. Not data for didymo or Quagga/Zebra Mussels but likely to be effective.

*Bleach - A solution of household bleach is NO LONGER recommended for NZMS. The 2005 CA DFG testing report demonstrated bleach is very ineffective at killing snails when it's operculum is closed. (Trap door kind of thing the snail closes over it's opening). A solution of bleach may cause some discoloration of wading materials. Strong concentrations can affect wading equipment material integrity. However, a weak 2-10% solution of bleach (by Volume) is still effective for killing other invasive species such as Whirling Disease(10%), Didymo (2%), and Zebra Mussels. Thus you will still see it promoted on many state wildlife websites and the "Protect Your Waters" website.

Not effective for New Zealand Mudsnails.
This method has been proven to be effective for Didymo, WD, Quagga/Zebra Mussels.

* Grapefruit seed extract also failed the CA DFG NZMS test.
* Table Salt and water has been proven by the CA DFG to be 100% ineffective at killing NZMS but it may get the snail to release from a surface and retract into it's shell so that it is easier to wash them off wading equipment. It has not been tested on Whirling Disease. The New Zealand Biosecurity lists a 5% salt solution as being effective against Didymo.

* Pure Vinegar has not been tested for effectiveness on NZMS or Whirling Disease. I have not located any information with respect to Didymo, Quagga or Zebra Mussels.

* Dish detergent, 2-5% solution will kill Didymo. The Vermont and New Hampshire DNR's recommend using "Lots of Soap". For 1 gallon of water a 2-5% solution would require from 1/3 to slightly more than 3/4 cup of detergent. appears to not have been tested or is ineffective on NZMS or WD.
Though soap will not kill New Zealand Mudsnails it will help to release them from the surface they cling to. Thus washing them off of your equipment will be easier. But if you don't kill the invasive then you are leaving the possibility of the invasive to remaining on your equipment crevices and recesses.

This method has been proven to be effective for Didymo. I have no data for WD, Quagga/ Zebra Mussels.

Below are
** Other Cleaning Methods **


Boats, rafts, and trailer hygiene:

Vehicles: The tires and undercarriage need to be sprayed off with a high pressure hose or by going through a car wash.
Boats, rafts and trailers should be cleaned of mud, vegetation or other debris using a high pressure commercial car wash whenever possible before driving into the next stream. Drain and disinfect live wells and sumps with 10% bleach solution.

* CLEAN the hull of your boat.
* DRAIN the water from the boat, livewell and the lower unit of the engine.
* DRY the boat, fishing gear, and equipment.
* INSPECT all exposed surfaces.
* REMOVE all plant and animal material.

Video on cleaning your boat
Also see www.protectyourwaters.net
(CO DOW NZMS management plan)

Wash your wading dog

When you take your dog fishing with you he/she walks in the same river bottom you do and thus can easily transport organisms as well as you can. Thus before taking your pet to another body of water you need to wash your dog with water as warm as possible and brush it's coat. Clean well around paws. Better yet, don't take your dog as the above method is not rock sold effective.


Hot Water Bath:

* Give your gear a hot water bath (120 -130ºF) for five minutes. Water must remain 120ºF - 130° F during bathing - Water in your bath tub probably can maintain this temperature. Your dish washer should work well. For Quagga/Zebra Mussels equal to or greater than 140ºF.

This method has been proven to be effective for NZMS, rocksnot, and WD

Note - some places I see the temperature listed as 120 and other places I see it as 130 or 140
(a Colorado DOW & US Fish & Wildlife recommendation - plus other state wildlife websites)

Here is one way a camping fisherman achieves this:
"I've found one of those Zodi portable hot shower kits (http://www.zodi.com/web-content/ ) and a 5 gallon bucket makes a nice portable sterilizer without having to carry chemicals, and lets me take a hot shower while camping. The Zodi unit is a continuous operation heater. I just put the inlet and outlet hose in the same bucket, turn it on and let it run. I monitor the temperature with a cheap kitchen thermometer and once it gets up to temperature, I leave it running for another 5 minutes to be safe then shut it down."

Or

Dry the Equipment:
The general guidelines recommends thoroughly drying the equipment. For Didymo many web sites recommend thoroughly drying the equipment. Then allow another 24 hours before using the equipment. Thoroughly drying the equipment can be a lot harder than you think. Felt soles may take days to dry completely through the depth of the material. Also you have to make sure all creases and crevices outside and inside the equipment are dry, such as inside boots or boat bags. NZMS have survived several days in a dry environment and 50 days on a moist surface. The "Protect Your Waters" website sponsored by The national Aquatic Nuisance Species (ANS) Task Force, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service and the U.S. Coast Guard recommends;" If possible, allow for 5 days of drying time before entering new waters." Complete drying of equipment is a method recommended by New Zealand Biosecurity for killing Didymo on your equipment.

For Didymo, WD, Quagga/Zebra Mussels and NZMS

Dry Heat:
* Dry Heat will kill NZMS, WD and Didymo. Spray with "Commercial Solutions Formula 409 Cleaner Degreaser Disinfectant" or other soap/ detergent and let waders and boots dry in the hot sun for several hours. The air must be low humidity and over 84 Degrees F for 24 hours or 104 Degrees F (or higher) for 2 hours. Any residual mud must be completely dried through. Inside surfaces such in boots must be thoroughly dry also. (The reason for the soap is because it breaks down the mucus the mud snails utilizes to hold onto wet surfaces)
(An older recommendation by DOW)

Or


Freeze Equipment
for 4 hours minimum(for those winter die hard addicts or those with unused freezer space). ALL The interior recesses must be frozen, also. Thus additional time must be added for the recesses and insides of boots to reach freezing. Thus the recommendation of freezing over night.
Note - handle your waders and boots carefully and thaw out before bending or unfolding. Frozen water has the potential to crack the gear material when bending it.

This works for NZMS and Didymo. I am not sure about WD.

(Numerous sources recommend this but several say it must be over night)

Or
* An off the wall suggestion: Assuming there are not any metal parts on your equipment stick them in a microwave for about 15 seconds. Note - You don't want to be around when your wife finds out.

The "Stop Aquatic Hitchhikers!" campaign empowers recreational users to become part of the solution in stopping the transport and spread of these harmful hitchhikers. The main sponsors of this national program are The national Aquatic Nuisance Species (ANS) Task Force, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service and the U.S. Coast Guard.

The Stop Aquatic Hitchhikers website has some general prevention procedures for preventing the spread of invasive species. Though they are very good procedures to follow just remember they are general procedures trying covering many potential threats. Parts of the general procedures are inadequate in that they are not positive controls for protection against New Zealand Mudsnails and/or Whirling Disease since they do not kill the invasive. Review the information about vinegar and salt water solutions discussed above.

General Prevention Procedures for Aquatic Invasive species http://protectyourwaters.org/prevention/prevention_generic.php


Read these questions and answers dealing with concerns raised about cleaning our wading equipment

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Why do I want to Sanitize My Water Recreational Equipment
The Mudsnails were found in
Boulder Creek and South Platte River in 2004/2005

The snails have spread from one river in one state to many rivers in 10 western states in just 20 years. There also are populations in the Great Lakes.
See this dot map
New Zealand Mudsnails do not have any predators or parasites in the US to control populations.
It is widely believed by the experts that the majority of the initial new populations of NZMS are being transported on fisherman's waders, boots, nets, and boats to new sites. In California, most of the infested rivers and locations are those that are very popular fishing locations in the winter when most streams are frozen over. Thus, an indicator that fisherman are dragging the pest with them from river to river. The Colorado infestations are within quick access from roads. The state of Utah says that the locations that have the snails or Whirling disease are locations that are within quick access from a road or parking lot.
(Also by other recreationalist such as rafters and kayakers.)
It is a lot easier and cheaper to take steps to avoid transporting the snail to another river than it is to rid the environment of the pest. There currently is no known way to control or remove them once in a river system.

Visual inspection is inadequate
to detect snails that may be no bigger than a grain of ground pepper.
The New Zealand Mudsnail can live at least several days and up to several weeks out of the water ... imbedded in your felt soles and creases of your equipment or in moist mud stuck to your boots!
In the laboratory they have lived 50 days hanging onto a moist surface.
The snails have a shell door they close so they can survive the intestinal track of fish and many household cleaners for extended periods of time.
In Laboratory tests where trout were feed a solid mud snail diet, one-third died and the rest suffered dramatic weight loss.
Anglers report declining trout populations and smaller fish in some areas infested by snails. Government agencies have not had time to quantify impacts
They can be 95% of the invertebrate biomass in the water.
They crowd out other food organisms eaten by aquatic life such as fish and are less digestible and less nutritious (lab tests have shown that fish loose weight with a mostly NZMS diet)
Because the snails consume a lot of algae that would go to mayflies, stoneflies and caddis flies,they reduce the available food for insect-eating trout
It takes only a lone female to start a whole new population.
The snails can reproduce by parthenogenesis. That means It does not take a male and a female to tango. (Asexual means no sexual organs - female NZMS have both male and female sex organs => parthenogenesis)
They can reproduce 4 times per year and yield up to 120 embryos at a time.
The Mudsnail can tolerate temperatures from near freezing to 90ºF., but prefer temperatures of about 66ºF - 70ºF
There can be up to 750,000 snails per sq. yard (no typo here), appearing to be little specks dotting the entire bottom.
The Colorado DOW has scooped up a complete handful of snails with one swipe of a net in Boulder creek.
The NZ Mudsnail likes slower moving cold waters with a rocky bottom but do populate every type of river or lake bottom quite well. Tail waters promote high population densities.
All the other Western States are also battling NZMS infestations
While we are visiting someone else's home waters in other western states we should be doing our part to prevent the further spread of the snails . Thus we must wash equipment before moving from one body of water to another.
Trout fisheries and other fisheries may be significantly reduced FOREVER if we, the public, do not help prevent the NZM from spreading. It may affect populations of other aquatic wildlife also. The state government can not do it alone. We must be the grass roots participants.
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NZMS Information Links
High Country Angler Article - Trout Talk: New Zealand Mudsnails
Denver Post Article "Invasion of Wildlife Snatchers" -by Charlie Meyers
"Colorado DOW Insider" Hitch Hiker Report - http://wildlife.state.co.us/WildlifeSpecies/Profiles/InvasiveSpecies/NewZealandMudsnail.htm
Colorado DOW NZMS Warning Poster -
http://wildlife.state.co.us/NR/rdonlyres/C1C803EE-E820-4966-BF99-5FA19BBC8004/0/NZ_Mudsnail_poster.pdf

Colorado Trout Unlimited Organization Aquatic Nuisance page -
http://www.cotrout.org/tabid/136/Default.aspx

Rocky Mountain National Park- Disinfecting Equipment Guidelines
http://www.nps.gov/romo/visit/park/fishbikepic/fishing.html
California Department of Fish and Game Report - "Controlling the Spread of New Zealand Mud Snails on Fishing Equipment" - the only published detailed study in the country
California Department Of Fish and Game Mudsnail Page - http://www.dfg.ca.gov/invasives/mudsnail/
New Zealand Mudsnail National Resource / data collection website - Montana State University
http://www.esg.montana.edu/aim/mollusca/nzms/
Dot Maps of NZMS affected areas - by state
http://www.esg.montana.edu/aim/mollusca/nzms/status.html
Contacts for Reporting and Information sources on New Zealand Mud Snails -
http://www.esg.montana.edu/aim/mollusca/nzms/states.html
Utah Division of Wild Life Aquatic Nuisances page -
http://www.wildlife.utah.gov/habitat/ans/
The Bug Lab - (BLM / Utah State University National Aquatic Monitoring Center) -
http://www1.usu.edu/buglab/
The Bug Labs report on feeding a sole diet of NZMS and Scuds to trout
http://www1.usu.edu/buglab/projects/NZMS%20Denver%20April%202005.pdf

2006 High Country News Article - Stream Invaders May Harm Trout

NZMS Article on Trout Unlimited Website
NZMS page - the California School of Flyfishing -
http://www.flyline.com/environmental/nzms/
Oregon State Seagrant NZMS Brochure - download PDF

General Prevention Procedures for Aquatic Invasive species http://protectyourwaters.org/prevention/prevention_generic.php

(some of these general procedures are inadequate against New Zealand Mudsnails)

send comments or suggestions about this information to the webguy

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